White Sonora Wheat: a Real Taste of Arizona
When you think of local food, you might picture fresh vegetables, mesquite honey, or seasonal citrus. But what about grains? Unlike vegetables that can be picked and eaten, grains require processing, knowledge, and investment in infrastructure to make it to your plate. Thanks to a concerted effort over the last decade or so, you can now experience White Sonora Wheat, one of North America's oldest heritage wheats, that offers a taste of the true terroir of Arizona.
Unlike conventional wheat, which has shallow roots and relies heavily on industrial fertilizers, White Sonora grows deep into the soil, pulling up essential minerals and nutrients that define Arizona's landscape. This not only enhances its nutritional profile but also benefits the soil and grows with relatively little water, making it a sustainable choice for a region where water is precious.
White Sonora Wheat has been a staple of the Western U.S. for over 200 years, though it nearly vanished during the Green Revolution when industrialized farming prioritized high-yield crops that thrived on chemical fertilizers. Fortunately, thanks to dedicated farmers, bakers, and brewers, White Sonora has made a comeback. Today, it is championed by artisans such as Barrio Bread, Pizzeria Bianco, Wilderness Brewing, Valentine, and Hayden Flour Mills — internationally-recognized businesses that have helped put Arizona on the culinary map.
White Sonora Wheat crackers from Hayden Flour Mills
A Rich History Rooted in Arizona
White Sonora Wheat was introduced to the Sonoran Desert by Spanish missionaries in the 1600s, likely arriving from Spain’s Andalucía region, which shares a climate similar to that of the Santa Cruz River Basin. The indigenous communities quickly embraced it, as it filled an essential gap in the food cycle, ripening in early spring when stores of mesquite and other staples were running low. Unlike corn, which required ceremonial planting and a labor-intensive growing process, wheat was easier to cultivate and harvest, making it a practical choice for Native communities.
The oft-repeated story is that Father Kino introduced White Sonora to North America to be used in sacramental wafers, but evidence indicates that it arrived with missionaries even earlier. Nevertheless, we must acknowledge that some Native peoples were even forced to grow the wheat for the padres’ sacramental wafers.
By the mid-1700s, White Sonora Wheat had become the dominant staple in the Tucson Basin, providing sustenance for both indigenous and Spanish settlers. Over time, the wheat spread along the West Coast, becoming the primary grain of California and Oregon. By the 1920s, millions of acres of White Sonora were grown in the Western U.S., and it was the wheat of choice for tortillas, pastries, and crackers.
However, by the 1930s, industrial agriculture favored high-yield wheat varieties that required intensive irrigation and chemical fertilizers. At the same time, economic factors led to the closing of local mills. For the next 40 or so years, farmers still growing the crop had to travel to Hayden Flour Mills in Phoenix for their grains to be processed, until that, too, closed. This combination of factors forced heritage grains like White Sonora into obscurity.
A Glimpse into Processing White Sonora Wheat with Grain R&D at Sossaman Farms
The Revival of White Sonora Wheat
In the 1980s, food historian Gary Nabhan sought out farmers who still grew White Sonora Wheat. He discovered two Tohono O’odham families near the Mexican border who had continued to grow the grain for generations. With their help, he harvested and stored seeds, laying the groundwork for its revival, but, as the story goes, the seeds languished in a coffee can at Native Seeds/SEARCH until their moment came.
In 2011, Chris Bianco of Pizzeria Bianco partnered with Jeff Zimmerman of Hayden Flour Mills to bring White Sonora Wheat back into the mainstream. They milled their first batch in the back of Bianco’s restaurant, reintroducing the grain to Arizona’s chefs and bakers. By 2012, Native Seeds/SEARCH had received a grant to expand its cultivation, ensuring its future as a sustainable, locally grown grain.
During this time, as market demand has expanded, Sossaman Farms has increased the amount of White Sonora they grow and process and partnered with farmers across the state. They are passionate about helping other farmers add White Sonora to their rotation.
Hayden Flour Mills operations on the same property as Sossaman Farms Grain R & D.
Sustainability & Superior Flavor
White Sonora Wheat is an agricultural powerhouse, offering both environmental and culinary benefits. Unlike modern wheat, which has been bred for uniformity and industrial efficiency, White Sonora grows taller—reaching up to 40 inches—providing natural weed suppression. It is drought-tolerant and thrives in Arizona’s climate, requiring less water than conventional wheat.
Additionally, it is disease-resistant, reducing the need for chemical treatments. Unlike many conventional grains, which require herbicides like Roundup, Arizona’s dry climate allows White Sonora to be grown without harmful chemicals. The grain is naturally lower in gluten than modern wheat, making it easier to digest for many people.
White Sonora Wheat is a soft wheat variety with a naturally sweet and slightly nutty flavor. Its low-gluten structure makes it ideal for:
Tortillas – Its soft texture creates pliable, flavorful tortillas, a staple in Sonoran cuisine.
Breads & Pastries – Adds superior flavor and flakiness to baked goods.
Brewing – Malts in a unique way, enhancing craft beers with its smooth, slightly sweet notes.
Beyond taste, it also provides essential nutrients, including protein, fiber, and vitamins, making it a healthier alternative to conventional wheat.
Unlike the hard red wheats that dominate commercial bread baking, White Sonora has a delicate gluten structure, resulting in a tender crumb and a superior taste experience. The grain also malts in a unique way, making it an excellent choice for brewing.
From Field to Table: The Culinary Influence of White Sonora Wheat
Today, White Sonora Wheat is at the heart of Arizona’s local food movement. Farmers such as Sossaman Farms, BKW Farms, and the San Xavier Cooperative have embraced its production, ensuring its availability for future generations. Some of the most respected names in the food industry celebrate its unique qualities:
Barrio Bread: Uses White Sonora Wheat to craft flavorful, naturally fermented loaves.
Pizzeria Bianco: Incorporates it into their renowned pizzas.
Valentine: Showcases its delicate sweetness in pastries.
Hayden Flour Mills: Has become a leading advocate for heritage grains, offering freshly milled White Sonora products.
Casino del Sol: Uses it in pastas.
Oatman Farms: Grows White Sonora as part of their regenerative farming practices, which they sell in White Sonora flours and baking mixes.
Local breweries have also embraced White Sonora Wheat for its malting properties. Wren House, The Shop Beer Co., and Pueblo Vida Brewing are just a few Arizona breweries crafting beers with its distinct flavor. In particular, The Shop Beer Co.’s Church Music IPA is brewed exclusively with Sossaman Farms' White Sonora Wheat, highlighting its terroir in every sip.
Looking to the Future
White Sonora Wheat’s resurgence is a testament to Arizona’s commitment to sustainable agriculture and culinary heritage. While grains have traditionally been slow to enter the local food movement—largely due to the need for specialized processing and infrastructure—this heritage wheat has overcome the odds. Its deep-rooted connection to Arizona’s landscape, along with the dedication of farmers, bakers, and brewers, has solidified its place in the state’s culinary identity.
White Sonora Wheat is more than just an ingredient; it’s a piece of Arizona’s history, a champion of sustainability, and a testament to the power of traditional foods. Whether enjoyed in a warm tortilla, a flaky pastry, or a locally brewed beer, every bite tells a story of resilience, flavor, and the true taste of Arizona.
Want to learn more?
A Desert Feast by Carolyn Niethammer
The Miller’s Daughter by Emma Zimmerman
Watch Hayden Flour Mills’ story: YouTube Video
Read about its revival from Gary Nabhan: Mother Earth Gardener