The Cultural and Culinary Connections of Eastlake and Nuestros Barrios Unidos
The Eastlake and Nuestros Barrios Unidos neighborhoods of Phoenix may appear to be more rooted in history than in the local food scene at first glance. But, in both areas, a deeper look reveals a meaningful connection that celebrates important cultural footings and integral elements of the city’s greater food system.
While one neighborhood is home to arguably the Valley’s best tortillas, the other features a Valley food landmark—a no-frills, family-run institution—that was one of the original restaurants to dish up the combo of fried chicken and waffles to Arizona residents.
Eastlake Park: The Past, The Present, and The Produce
Home to the city’s oldest park, Eastlake Park’s connection to the past — particularly for the Black community — is undeniable. The community, which runs from Van Buren Street to the railyard and between 7th and 18th Streets, was a focal point for the Phoenix Black community in an era when Blacks were not welcome in other parts of the city.
The neighborhood still carries forward its cultural roots as a historically notable haven by hosting civil rights rallies, Juneteenth, and Martin Luther King, Jr. celebrations in its park. Eastlake Park also once hosted a speech by Booker T. Washington and, oddly, became a refuge for two alligators that escaped from a farm and lived out their days in the park’s lake. Statues commemorate the on-the-run reptiles.
When it comes to food, Eastlake Park also plays a role on multiple fronts in the local food movement. Most notably, Eastlake Park is home to Mrs. White’s Golden Rule Cafe, a mainstay establishment that for decades has been serving up home-cooked, comfort food favorites, such as smothered southern fried chicken, pork chops, black-eyed peas, and pond-raised catfish in an unassuming atmosphere. It also happens to be where the first dishes for Lo-Lo’s Chicken and Waffles were conceived — a casual dining concept that now has six locations in three states, including three in Arizona.
Other remarkable eateries include Grassrootz Bookstore & Juice Bar, a Black-owned bookstore that also sells house-made smoothies, to help fund activism, education, and economic development in the community. Ben Brothers Market, a former 1940s-era grocer, is another classic dining destination that became a Chinese takeout spot in the 1980s.
As for Eastlake’s connection to the greater Phoenix food system, look no further than the industrial corridor that serves as a produce distribution hub for supermarkets and restaurants across the Valley. From Valencia Produce to Scottsdale Specialty Produce and beyond, crates of fresh goods are distributed by a number of vendors to local restaurants and grocers every day as part of a seemingly seamless and somewhat under-the-radar system.
Nuestros Barrios Unidos: An Enduring Culture
Historically a culturally-rich Hispanic/Latino region of Phoenix, the Nuestros Barrios Unidos neighborhood has seen quite a bit of change as Phoenix and Sky Harbor Airport continues to grow and expand. But, its local food institutions and destinations continue to celebrate the neighborhood’s Hispanic/Latino roots as a culturally diverse area of town, which runs from Buckeye Road to the Salt River and stretches from 7th to 16th Streets.
It all starts, and might even end, with the tortillas.
The Original Carolina’s Mexican Food, located inside a white brick building and marketed simply with red painted letters on the exterior, is a food destination in Phoenix—especially in this part of the city. It is home to the Valley’s best tortillas, awarded several times over, which is what got the eatery going in the first place. In the 1950s, its owners sold freshly made tortillas, along with burritos and tamales, to migrant farm workers and wrestling match spectators from the back of their car. The couple used their entire $400 savings to open their first restaurant and the rest is history.
A couple blocks away, Pitic Restaurant and Lounge continues to foster the neighborhood’s spirit with its authentic Mexican and seafood menu — including breakfast offerings — while also providing space for dancing and live music. Dora’s Kitchen, just east of 16th Street, offers handmade burritos and wraps, while Who Dat To Go is doing its best to bring the bayou to Phoenix with its home-cooked cajun cuisine.
As for recognition, Carolina’s isn’t alone in earning kudos. The family-owned Wong’s Chinese Dining has been named the best Chinese takeout by Eat This Not That for its fresh ingredients.
The Phoenix: Lets Eat Local! campaign is a partnership between City of Phoenix Office of Environmental Programs and Local First Arizona that celebrates the connection between Phoenix residents and the makers, growers, and advocates building stronger food systems in our local food communities. It is an invitation for residents to learn about our local food communities, celebrate our diverse food pathways, and help our local food businesses become more resilient and robust for ourselves and for future generations. To learn more about the campaign, visit http://phxeatlocal.com/.